The Romagna Riviera: Rimini, Milano Marittima, Cervia and inland

The white Liberty palace in the park that carries Fellini's name, and the hotel of his films. Not a rooftop: a terrace and a garden a few steps from the beach, with a gourmet restaurant called La Dolce Vita. You come here for a drink in a place that explains Rimini better than any beach club.

At the marina of San Giuliano, the fishermen's side of Rimini beyond the harbour. A terrace a few steps from the shore, open every day from 8:00 to 1:00 for breakfast, lunch, aperitivo and dinner, by its own account. The name is a promise: the open horizon and the evening light over the docks.

Ten kilometres inland from Rimini, in the hill town of Santarcangelo. An osteria that has made piadina, hand-rolled pasta and Sangiovese into a small world of its own, with a shop and its own farm produce. It is here because a guide to the Riviera that never leaves the beach misses the point.

A beach establishment that turned into a national reference for a certain idea of summer. Its own symbol is the sunset aperitivo: at the Tropical Bar, on the terrace or under the umbrella. Loud, crowded and unapologetic; if you want to understand Milano Marittima, an afternoon here is part of it.

On the seafront of Cervia, a beach club that describes itself as the beach club of Romagna: a well-kept beach, a bar and restaurant, courts for beach volleyball and other sports, events through the season. Where Papeete is the party, this is the full day: an easier place for those who want the sea first.