Liguria from above: Genoa, the Cinque Terre, Portovenere and Portofino

The balcony of Genoa: a tree-lined esplanade above the historic centre, reached on foot or by the public lift from Piazza Portello. From the railing the city reads like a map: grey slate roofs, bell towers, the Lanterna and the ships in the harbour. Free, always open, best towards evening.

The white arms over the Porto Antico were designed by Renzo Piano on the model of a ship's crane. One of them lifts a round glass cabin that turns slowly above the docks: the old town climbing the hill on one side, the harbour and the sea on the other. Short, unusual and right where the city meets the water.

On the headland of Punta Bonfiglio, facing the coloured houses of Manarola stacked on the rock. Wine, bruschette, platters of local produce and a pesto-making experience, all outdoors. It is the place for the photograph everyone knows, and that is exactly why it works best early or out of season.

Where the Via dell'Amore leaves Riomaggiore, a bar and a bistrot share a terrace that drops straight to the sea. Local wines by the glass, tastings and a short menu; the bar is open from March to October. Come for the hour before sunset, when the rock turns orange.

At the tip of the village, built into the old fortifications over the water. The restaurant has several small spaces, each with its own character: the tower, the front terrace, an indoor room and a single table for two. Ligurian seafood, and the sound of the waves underneath. Book, and ask which terrace.

The Grand Hotel Portovenere is a five-star boutique hotel at the entrance of the village; its restaurant takes its name from the island across the channel. The hotel speaks of its unique views and informal elegance: the bay, the boats and Palmaria fill the windows. A quieter way into the Gulf of Poets than the Cinque Terre crowds.

A castle on the ridge of the peninsula, a few minutes on foot above the harbour. Its own website calls it a viewpoint over Portofino and the Gulf of Tigullio, and that is the point: from the terrace and the garden the piazzetta, the yachts and the coast are all below you. Opening days change with the season and private events.

The Splendido is a former monastery on the slope above Portofino. La Terrazza is its restaurant, described by the hotel as elevated, seasonal Ligurian cuisine; the hotel also has a grill and a cocktail bar. It is one of the most expensive tables on the Riviera, and one of the few where the price includes a whole bay.

On the sixth floor of the Grand Hotel Bristol, on the road between Rapallo and Zoagli. The Michelin Guide lists it among the sea-view tables around Genoa for its outlook on the promontory of Portofino. A good reason to stop in Rapallo rather than drive past it.